What is Argireline or acetyl hexapeptide -3?
Argireline or acetyl hexapeptide-3, is a peptide chain of six amino acids that are attached to the residue of acetic acid. Attaching the hexapeptide to the fatty acid, acetyl, allows the resulting amino-peptide to be easily absorbed into the skin. It is a peptide which is a shortened version of Botox. Topical application of Argireline is the only method of delivery that as yet has been tested.
What does Argireline do?
Argireline relaxes facial tension, leading to the relaxation of facial muscles that contribute to lines and wrinkles. Researchers think Argireline works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters released by the brain that tell these facial muscles to tense. The result is relaxed musculature and reduced wrinkles and lines.
Note that Argireline’s effects are very similar to those of BOTOX® injections. But where the FDA only allows BOTOX® serum to be injected in limited areas of the face, Argireline may be applied wherever lines and wrinkles appear. One published study showed a 30% reduction in wrinkle size after only 30 days of using 10% Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3)(1).
This powerful ingredient reduces muscle contractions in a non-paralytic fashion and without toxic side effects.
UPDATE
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP 8) is a second generation version of Argireline and shown to be more effective so is the ingredient of choice in our newly formulated creams.
References:
- A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity
C. Blanes-Mira*, J. Clemente , G. Jodas , A. Gil3, G. Fernández-Ballester*, B. Ponsati , L. Gutierrez , E. Pérez-Payá and A. Ferrer-Montiel*International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Volume 24 Issue 5 Page 303, October 2002.
Botulinum neurotoxins (BoNTs) represent a revolution in cosmetic science because of their remarkable and long-lasting antiwrinkle activity. However, their high neurotoxicity seriously limits their use. Thus, there is a need to design and validate non-toxic molecules that mimic the action of BoNTs. The hexapeptide Ac-EEMQRR-NH2 (acetyl hexapeptide -3, coined Argireline) was identified as a result of a rational design programme. Noteworthy, skin topography analysis of an oil/water (O/W) emulsion containing 10% of the hexapeptide on healthy women volunteers reduced wrinkle depth up to 30% upon 30 days treatment. Analysis of the mechanism of action showed that acetyl hexapeptide-3 significantly inhibited neurotransmitter release with a potency similar to that of BoNT A, although as expected, it displayed much lower efficacy than the neurotoxin. Inhibition of neurotransmitter release was due to the interference of the A-Hex-3 peptide with the formation and/or stability of the protein complex that is required to drive Ca2+-dependent exocytosis, namely the vesicular fusion (known as SNARE) complex. Notably, this peptide did not exhibit in vivo oral toxicity nor primary irritation at high doses. Taken together, these findings demonstrate that Argireline is a non-toxic, antiwrinkle peptide that emulates the action of currently used BoNTs. Therefore, this hexapetide represents a biosafe alternative to BoNTs in cosmetics. - Ruiz, MA; Clares, B; Morales, ME; Cazalla, S; Gallardo, V (2007). “Preparation and stability of cosmetic formulations with an anti-aging peptide.”. Journal of cosmetic science 58 (2): 157–71.